日常生活视域下的民国男子服饰变迁的考察  

An Investigation on the Changes of Men’s Clothing in the Republic of China from the Perspective of People’s Daily Life

作　　者：吕天石[1] 肖红松[1] Lv Tianshi;Xiao Hongsong(History Institute,Hebei University)

机构地区：[1]河北大学历史学院

出　　处：《中国社会历史评论》2020年第1期-,共21页Chinese Social History Review

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学重点研究基地重大项目“传统向现代的转型:中国近现代日常生活研究”的阶段性成果,编号为18JJD770001

摘　　要：服饰是人们日常生活的基础性内容,也是社会风习的风向标。民国时期服饰变革主要体现在发式、足履以及男女衣着之变。男子服饰不及女子服饰变迁那样令人瞩目,却也悄然平缓地发生着改变。男子剪辫、理发及足履西式皮鞋,一系列头、脚之变的背后,有政令的强制,更有时人审美观念的更新。在西装、中山装之外,长衫与西裤、皮鞋、礼帽的混搭也成为民国男子的着装惯习。与此同时,城市底层社会及乡民着装普遍"寒酸",但其间也存在相对而言的"体面"与一定程度的流变。可以说,贫富差距与城乡对立仍使衣着发挥着辨识阶层的作用。日常生活既是历史研究的一项重要内容,也是研究历史的一种视角或方法。从人们在日常生活中的经历、体验与感受出发,可以更好地观察民国时期社会传统与现代性交织的样态与时代特征。Clothing is the necessity of people’s daily life,as well as the weathervane of social customs.Clothing change during the Republic of China(1912—1949)were mainly reflected in the changes of hairstyle,size of feet and clothing.The change of Men’s clothing is not so dramatic as the women’s,and it took place quietly.For instance,Men’s braids-cutting,haircuts and putting on western-style leather shoes.The reasons behind a series of hair and shoes’ changes is government mandate and the aesthetic standard’s change of people.In addition to suits and Chinese tunic suit,the mix and match of long shirts with trousers,leather shoes and top hats has also become the dressing habit of men in the Republic of China.At the same time,the people in the bottom of urban society and rural people wear"shabby"clothing,but there are also some"decent"psychology and a certain degree of change.It can be said that the gap between the rich and the poor and the antagonism between rural and urban areas make clothing remain the role in identifying the social class.Daily life services as not only an important content of historical research,but also a perspective or method of studying history.From the perspective of people’s experiences and feelings in daily life,we can have a better understanding of the patterns and characteristics of the time interwoven with social tradition and modernity in the period of the Republic of China.

关 键 词：男子着装 个体经历 感受 日常生活 民国 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]