铜氨/绢丝斜纹面料的设计与生产  

Design and production of copper ammonia silk twill fabric

作　　者：马昀 MA Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2022年第3期41-43,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏高校品牌专业建设工程项目(PP2Y2015A093);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心项目[苏政办发2014(22)号]

摘　　要：铜氨纤维在某些性能上与真丝相近,可用来生产高真度仿真丝类产品。选用铜氨/绢丝混纺纱为经纱,麻/天丝混纺纱为纬纱织制斜纹面料。面料既保留了真丝织物凉爽、舒适、飘逸的优点,又克服了蛋白质纤维易老化和吸收汗渍后容易变黄的缺陷。前织工序选用“小张力、低速度、保弹性”工艺原则,解决了铜氨/绢丝混纺纱耐磨性差、易伸长的问题;控制烘筒温度解决了铜氨/绢丝纤维易老化问题。Copper ammonia fiber is similar to silk in some properties to produce high fidelity silk imitation products.The twill fabric is woven with copper ammonia/silk blended yarn as warp yarn and hemp/Tencel Blended yarn as weft yarn.The fabric not only retains the original cool,comfortable and elegant advantages of the real silk fabric,but also overcomes the defects that protein fiber is easy to age and turn yellow after absorbing sweat stains.The process principle of“low tension,low speed and elasticity”is used in the pre-weaving process to solve the problems of poor wear resistance and easy elongation of copper ammonia/spun silk blended yarn.The problem of copper ammonia/silk fiber aging is solved by controlling the drying cylinder temperature.

关 键 词：混纺纱 铜氨纤维 绢丝 仿真丝 织物 斜纹面料 

分 类 号：TS106.52[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]