Transformation and Breaking of Irregular Waves on Very Gentle Slopes  

作　　者：李玉成 崔丽芳 于洋 董国海 高家俊 庄士贤 

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2000年第3期261-278,共18页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：This project was supported financially by National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.49876026);Research Foundation for the Development of Engineering Technical Code of the Ministry of Communications

摘　　要：Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

关 键 词：wave spectrum beach slope wave transformation wave breaking breaker indices 

分 类 号：TV139.2[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]