Study of the Second-Order Nonlinear Characteristics of Ocean Waves (Ⅰ)——Theoretical Derivation  

作　　者：丁平兴 孙孚 余宙文 

机构地区：[1]Institute of Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal University, Shanghai 200062, PRC [2]Laboratory of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, PRC

出　　处：《Science China Chemistry》1994年第5期625-633,共9页中国科学（化学英文版）

基　　金：Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.

摘　　要：This paper investigates the second-order nonlinear characteristics of random waves. Based upon the solutions derived strictly for 3-dimensional random waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth , the sea surface skewness and the second-order spectrum are exactly rededuced in a more reasonable way, and the bispectrum of sea surface elevation is theoretically given for the first time.This paper investigates the second-order nonlinear characteristics of random waves. Based upon the solutions derived strictly for 3-dimensional random waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth , the sea surface skewness and the second-order spectrum are exactly rededuced in a more reasonable way, and the bispectrum of sea surface elevation is theoretically given for the first time.

关 键 词：NONLINEAR WAVES SKEWNESS SECOND-ORDER SPECTRUM bispectrum. 

分 类 号：P731.2[天文地球—海洋科学]