Second-Order Nonlinear Characteristics of Ocean Waves (Ⅱ)——Interpretation,Deduction and Verification  

Second-Order Nonlinear Characteristics of Ocean Waves (Ⅱ)——Interpretation,Deduction and Verification

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作  者:丁平兴 余宙文 孙孚 

机构地区:[1]Institute of Estuarine and Coastal Research,East China Normal University,Shanghai 200062,PRC [2]National Marine Environmental Forecasting Center,Beijing 100081,PRC [3]Laboratory of Physical Oceanography,Ocean University of Qingdao,Qingdao 266003,PRC

出  处:《Science China Chemistry》1994年第11期1379-1388,共10页中国科学(化学英文版)

基  金:the National Natural Science Foundation of China

摘  要:The theoretical results derived in Part 1 have been physically interpreted and respectivelyapplied to three-dimensional waves in deep water and to two-dimensional waves in finite-and infinite-depthwater,so that the analytical expressions of the second-order nonlinear characteristics are systematically giv-en for the main wave models.The experiments performed in a wind-wave flume are reported briefly and themeasured data are used to verify the theoretical results obtained.A fairly good agreement is seen between thetheory and the experiments.The theoretical results derived in Part 1 have been physically interpreted and respectively applied to three-dimensional waves in deep water and to two-dimensional waves in finite-and infinite-depth water,so that the analytical expressions of the second-order nonlinear characteristics are systematically giv- en for the main wave models.The experiments performed in a wind-wave flume are reported briefly and the measured data are used to verify the theoretical results obtained.A fairly good agreement is seen between the theory and the experiments.

关 键 词:nonlinear WAVES SKEWNESS SECOND-ORDER spectrum BISPECTRUM 

分 类 号:P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]

 

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