波浪作用下缓坡近岸海域沿岸流分布影响因素分析  

Influence factors of wave-induced long-shore current on a near-shore mild slope beach

作　　者：孙涛[1] 陶建华[1] 

机构地区：[1]天津大学力学系,天津300072

出　　处：《水动力学研究与进展（A辑）》2004年第4期558-564,共7页Chinese Journal of Hydrodynamics

基　　金：国家自然科学基金重点资助项目(59839330);国家自然科学基金资助项目(19772031)

摘　　要：　本文研究了均匀岸坡地形条件下,规则波及不规则波浪作用下缓坡近岸海域沿岸流的分布规律。采用数学模型与物理模型相结合,分析了波浪要素,地形坡度等因素对沿岸流分布的影响。提出了表征沿岸流分布特征参数的经验公式。研究结果表明,缓坡近岸海域,波浪作用下沿岸流的分布主要受到入射波浪波高、入射角度及地形坡度的影响。不规则波浪作用下沿岸流的速度分布相对平缓。Long-shore current induced by regular and irregular wave is studied for a mild slope beach. By combining the numerical model and physical experiment, influence of beach slope and wave factors on the distribution of wave-induced long-shore current are analyzed. An empirical formula is proposed, which describes the characteristics of the long-shore current. It could be drawn from the results that the long-shore current is influenced significantly by the effects of incident wave height, wave angle and beach slope for the near-shore mild slope beach. The cross-shore profile of current velocity induced by irregular wave is smoother than the current induced by regular wave.

关 键 词：波浪 沿岸流 数学模型 缓坡近岸海域 

分 类 号：P731[天文地球—海洋科学]