精纺面料的弹性整理和织物性能  

Elastic treatment on worsted fabrics in finishing and its fabric properties

作　　者：李波[1] 李伟[2] 杨建忠[1] 柳中笑 

机构地区：[1]西安工程科技学院纺织学院,陕西西安710048 [2]兰州三毛实业股份有限公司

出　　处：《西安工程科技学院学报》2004年第3期200-204,239,共6页Journal of Xi an University of Engineering Science and Technology

摘　　要：探讨全毛精纺面料的弹性整理及整理后织物的物理机械性能.通过适当调整面料设计规格并在后整理工序中采用化学弹性整理,赋予织物经向或纬向弹力,改善了精纺面料的风格及服用性能.同时采用Siro-FAST仪测试了这种弹性面料的性能.试验结果表明:经弹性整理的面料,其面料的弹性指标可以达到天然弹性织物的技术性能指标.FAST仪测试表明:弹性面料具有较好的成形性,不会造成服装加工中线缝起皱和熨烫困难;但面料在弹性方向上的延伸性指标过高、湿膨胀率大,以及弯曲刚度和剪切刚度偏小,给剪裁和缝纫加工造成一定困难.Elastic treatment on worsted fabrics in finishing and the physical mechanical properties of fabrics treated were discussed in this paper. Through chemical treatment in finishing and proper fabric design (adjusting),the extra elasticity on worsted fabrics both in warp and (or) weft is imposed. As a result,the style and performances of fabrics can be improved. Using Siro-FAST series instrument,the fabric is (tested). (Objective) measurement shows that the index of elasticity of elastic fabric can reach the relevant (standard) of (natural) elastic fabrics. FAST evaluation shows that these kinds of elastic fabrics have good (formability) and (garment) (appearance) in which demonstrate that it does not cause seam pucker problem during garment (making), (but) have bigger extensibility and hygral expansion in the stretchable direction, and the (bending) rigidity and (shear) (rigidity) present smaller in which will probably cause problems in cutting and (sewing) stages in (garment) (making).

关 键 词：精纺面料 弹性整理Siro-FAST 面料性能 

分 类 号：TS135.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]