Haptic Evaluation of the Prickle of Fabrics: Axial Compression Bending Tests On Ramie Fibers  

作　　者：刘宇清 韩露 于伟东 

机构地区：[1]College of textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai, 200051

出　　处：《Journal of Donghua University(English Edition)》2004年第3期158-161,共4页东华大学学报（英文版）

摘　　要：Although smoothness, softness, and stiffness determine the physical and mechanical behavior of a fabric and the subjective assessment of quality when it is handled, the perceived comfort of clothing is more important to consumers. The sensations perceived from the contact of clothing with the skin can greatly influence our over-all state of comfort and one aspect of this is the unpleasant skin sensation of prickle. Surface prickle of fabrics can be a factor limiting the use of the coarser types of ramie in apparel. And the mechanical stimulus of fabric-evoked prickle underlies our discomfort to fabrics independent in the majority of cases of any chemical or the atopic status of the individual. It is known that the prickle of fabric can be reduced by fabric-finishing treatments, but the assessment of fabric prickle is often done subjectively. This is time consuming, and it is difficult to obtain reliable and reproducible results, since variability between subjects in their sensitivity to prickle, such as skin mechanical properties, effective density of nociceptors and the mood state of the individual. In order to find an objective method of measuring the physical properties of the stiff fiber ends protruding from the fabrics to predict prickle, axial compression bending tests were examined by using single ramie fiber. By comparing analysis, it is found that the critical compressing load (Pcr), the bending modulus (E) are the important parameters. The relationship of the critical load (Pcr) with the length of fiber (L) and the fineness of fiber (Nt) has been investigated.Although smoothness, softness, and stiffness determine the physical and mechanical behavior of a fabric and the subjective assessment of quality when it is handled, the perceived comfort of clothing is more important to consumers. The sensations perceived from the contact of clothing with the skin can greatly influence our over-all state of comfort and one aspect of this is the unpleasant skin sensation of prickle. Surface prickle of fabrics can be a factor limiting the use of the coarser types of ramie in apparel. And the mechanical stimulus of fabric-evoked prickle underlies our discomfort to fabrics independent in the majority of cases of any chemical or the atopic status of the individual. It is known that the prickle of fabric can be reduced by fabric-finishing treatments, but the assessment of fabric prickle is often done subjectively. This is time consuming, and it is difficult to obtain reliable and reproducible results, since variability between subjects in their sensitivity to prickle, such as skin mechanical properties, effective density of nociceptors and the mood state of the individual. In order to find an objective method of measuring the physical properties of the stiff fiber ends protruding from the fabrics to predict prickle, axial compression bending tests were examined by using single ramie fiber. By comparing analysis, it is found that the critical compressing load (P_~cr ), the bending modulus (E) are the important parameters. The relationship of the critical load (P_~cr ) with the length of fiber (L) and the fineness of fiber (N_t) has been investigated.

关 键 词：PRICKLE Contact comfort Protruding fiber Axial compression bending analyzer 

分 类 号：TS102.222[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]