粤东后江湾涨落潮下的碎波带波能与滩面地形时空变化分析  

AN ANALYSIS ON TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL VARIETIES OF WAVE ENERGY IN SURF ZONE AND BEACH FACE MORPHOLOGY UNDER INFLUENCE OF FLUCTUATING TIDE IN HOUJIANG GULF OF GUANGDONG PROVINCE

作　　者：冯砚青[1] 陈子燊[1] 李志龙[1] 李志强[1] 

机构地区：[1]中山大学水资源与环境系,广东广州510275

出　　处：《热带海洋学报》2005年第5期11-18,共8页Journal of Tropical Oceanography

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(40276030)

摘　　要：利用涌浪和处于陡滩面、滩面下陡坎和深槽海滩地形条件下的海滩碎波带压力波和滩面地形资料,对碎波带中的入射总波能、长重力波能及两者比值随潮位涨落的变化关系,碎波带动力因子与滩面地形之间的作用关系及典型相关和多维偏交叉谱关系等作了初步分析。结果表明,碎波带中的入射总波能与潮位涨落呈现出一致的变化规律;而碎波带中的长重力波能变化与潮位涨落变化趋势相反;碎波带各动力因子、滩面潜水位和碎波带波浪、潮位及滩面地形引起的滩面陡坎处破波点位置变动等因素的耦合作用,对滩面向海发育和滩面地形变化有重要影响。Based on the data of wave pressure measured in the beach surf zone impacted by swells, and the data of the steep beach face topography, the changes of incident energy, infragravity energy, and their ratio with fluctuating tide are analyzed; and the canonical correlation, the partial crossing spectrum correlation and coupling processes between surf zone dynamics and beach face topography are also analyzed. The results show that, the incident energy in the surf zone accretes with tide rising and minishes with tide falling, but the changes of the infragravity energy on the same conditions are reversed. The coupling processes among water dynamics in the surf zone, diving levels in the beach face, and changes of the breaker positions on the steep beach face have important impacts on the growth and changes of the beach face topography.

关 键 词：潮位 碎波带 长重力波 滩面 

分 类 号：P737.1[天文地球—海洋地质]