熨烫工艺影响不同面料服装造型的量化研究  

Quantification study of the effect of ironing-technology on forming of apparel of different fabrics

作　　者：雷中民[1] 胡茗[1] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程科技学院服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织学报》2005年第6期118-121,共4页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：应用传统的推归拨熨烫技术,在相应的温度、湿度、压力、时间、冷却方式等条件下,根据人体起伏变化及省缝的服用要求设计实验。对常用的天然纤维、合成纤维、混纺纤维等11种不同面料,在人体相应的尺寸设计量下进行熨烫,并对其变化结果进行分析,得出了天然纤维面料因其自身良好的特性,在测试中只要控制好基本参数,拨开和归进效果良好,同时面料的长短变化对推归拨的空间量也有一定的影响,也说明了天然纤维面料通过归拨后在满足人体立体服用需要时有很好的表现,并通过实例得到了证明。合成纤维面料弹性好,吸湿性差,纱线间摩擦因数小,推归拨保形时间短暂,还须加大熨烫时的工艺参数以达到良好的效果。混纺纤维具有2种纤维的长处,保形良好。当然在熨烫时归拨的量化大小还要紧密地和人体骨骼、肌肉相联系,做到有的放矢。Experiments were designed according to the human body curve line, wear-comfort of the darts and stitches, and to the traditional ironing technique under corresponding temperature, humidity, pressure, time and the cooling way. Ironing was applied to 11 kinds of apparel fabrics of natural, synthetic, and blended fibers based on the corresponding design of body measurements, and the results were analyzed. It revealed that as with the natural fiber fabric, owning to its good properties, good effect of stretching and shrinking could be obtained as long as controlling the basic parameters well in the test. The change in fabric length also affected the space volume of stretching and shrinking, which showed that the natural fabric has better performance in meeting the body 3-dimensional fitting needs after stretching and shrinking. The synthetic fabric has good elasticity, poor hydroscopicity, and small yarn to yarn friction coefficient, shape keeping time is short after pushing, stretching and shrinking. Therefore, it will get better effect if increasing all the technique parameters during the ironing process. The blended fabric has the virtues of both natural and synthetic fibers, and it has good shape keeping property. However, the volume of stretching and shrinking when ironing depends on the human anatomy and muscles.

关 键 词：服装造型 结构线 面料 熨烫 体型 

分 类 号：TS941.66[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]