Nonlinear Lagrangian Breaker Characteristics for Waves Propagating Normally Toward A Mild Slope  

作　　者：曾文哲 陈阳益 陈冠宇 

机构地区：[1]Dept.of Marine Environment and Engineering,National Sun Yat-Sen Univ., Kaohsiung804,Taiwan, China [2]Institute of Physical Oceanography,National Sun Yat-Sen Univ., Kaohsiung804,Taiwan, China

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2005年第4期587-600,共14页中国海洋工程（英文版）

摘　　要：Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, an analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope a and the wave steepness e in a Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By use of the kinematic stability parameter （K. S. P. ）, new theoretical breaker characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. A Comparison of the present analytical solution with experimental studies of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated.Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, an analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope a and the wave steepness e in a Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By use of the kinematic stability parameter （K. S. P. ）, new theoretical breaker characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. A Comparison of the present analytical solution with experimental studies of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated.

关 键 词：Eulerian system Lngrangian system breaking criteria perturbation method 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]