翻领宽度对西装翻驳领倒伏量的影响  

Influence of overturned collar width on gradient data of lapel collar

作　　者：鲁虹[1] 刘国联[1] 戴宏钦[1] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学材料工程学院,江苏苏州215021

出　　处：《纺织学报》2006年第8期45-48,共4页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：影响翻驳领倒伏量的因素很多,其中翻领与领座的高度差量是最主要的影响因素。从翻驳领设计原理出发,推导建立了翻领松量、翻领宽度与倒伏量关系的数学模型,并通过实验验证了模型的可行性。假定领座高度不变,随着领面宽度的增加,翻领松量的变化呈线性增加,且增量基本保持不变;而倒伏量也随翻领宽度的增加而增加,但增幅呈递减趋势。并且,随着翻领宽度的增加,领座必须做分体处理,才可保证领座部分合体,翻领部分服贴。The difference in height between the collar stand and the collar is one of the main factors affecting the design of gradient data of lapel collar. Based on the design principle of the lapel collar, a mathematics model of the relationship between lapel ease, collar width and gradient data is established and its feasibility is verified by experiments. Provided that the height of collar stand remains constant, the lapel ease and gradient data of lapel collar increase with the increase of the collar width, but in the case of increment, the former almost keeps linear increase tendency, whereas the latter exhibits a progressive decrease. Moreover, in order to get a good collar, the collar stand must be made so that it can be detached, thus ensuring a fit collar stand and a natural turning of a collar.

关 键 词：翻领松量 倒伏量 翻领宽度 领座 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]