综合考虑多种变形因素的近岸规则波传播数学模型 I.基本方程的导出  

A MATHEMATICAL MODEL FOR REGULAR WAVE PROPAGATION INCORATING MULTI-FACTORS OF TRANSFORMATION IN COASTAL WATERS

作　　者：李孟国[1] 李文丹 时钟[3] 

机构地区：[1]交通部天津水运工程科学研究所,天津300456 [2]哈尔滨工程大学,黑龙江哈尔滨100051 [3]上海交通大学港口与海岸工程系,上海200030

出　　处：《海洋湖沼通报》2006年第3期6-12,共7页Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology

基　　金：国家杰出青年科学基金(河口海岸学40225014)

摘　　要：推广了Kirby的有环境水流影响的缓坡方程,得到了综合考虑环境水流(水流因子)、非线性弥散影响(非线性因子)、底摩擦波能损失(底摩擦因子)、非缓坡地形影响(地形因子)、折射、绕射、波浪破碎多种变形因素的波浪传播控制方程,并给出了非线性因子、地形因子、底摩擦因子、水流因子的确定方法。基于导出的方程做进一步推导,得到了波高和波向为变量的综合考虑多种变形因素的波浪传播基本方程,该方程有许多优点:1)其绕开了求解波势函数的困难,将椭圆型方程的边值问题化为初值问题;2)直接求解波高和波向;3)可采用有限差分法离散求解,对空间步长没有限制,适合大面积海区波场计算;4)综合考虑了多种波浪变形因素,方程更为合理,5)容易处理波浪破碎问题。The governing equations are derived for regular wave propagation incorporatingmulti-transformation factors such as water current （current factor）, nonlinear dispersion effect （nonlinear factor）, rapidly varying topography effect （topography factor）, energy loss due to bottom friction （friction factor）, refraction, diffraction and wave breaking on the basis of Kirby＇s mild-slope equation with water current. The determination method of current factor, nonlinear factor, friction factor and topography factor is introduced. Based on the derived equations have many advantages： 1） The difficulties in soling the wave potential functions are avoided and the boundary value problems of ellipse are transformed into initial value problems;2） The wave height and direction can be directly solved;3） They can be solved by using a finite difference scheme with no restrictions on the spatial step, therefore are applicable to wave field calculation for large coastal areas ;4） The equations incorporate comprehensively multi-factors of wave transformation and are more reasonable. 5） They can deal with wave breaking problems easily.

关 键 词：规则波 折射绕射 非线性弥散 水流 非缓坡地形 底摩擦 波浪破碎 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]