Unraveling the Pattern Weaving Technology in Ming Dynasty  

作　　者：阙碧芬 

机构地区：[1]Dept. of Textiles and Clothing, Fu-Jen Catholic University

出　　处：《Journal of Donghua University(English Edition)》2006年第5期145-149,共5页东华大学学报（英文版）

摘　　要：The Ming dynasty （1368 - 1644） inherited the lens-standing culture in China, of course including the textile technology. Besides a large amount of sinsle color damask silk, many pattern woven silk including dragon robes, patterned costumes and luxurious silk textiles are found in complicated and colorful pattern woven brocade called zhuang hua. It was prevailed in Ming dynasty when compared with the frequency of the name chuang hua recorded in related historical documents. These pattern silk and brcrade were produced by the advanced pattern weavin8 technology, which was well developed in Ming dynasty. From historical documents of＂Tian gong kai wu＂, Exploitation of the works of nature, there is the detailed description of the draw loom （hua Io ji） which can weave normal patterned textiles. It also indicated that to produce dragon robes needed much more high technique, similar to the hua Io ）i but more complicated and difficult. A big draw loom is found to weave Nanjing Yen brocade today inherits the technolosy to weave zhuang hua brocade. After sorting the historical documents, it is found that some records are coincident with the existed materials, both the silk textiles and weaving technology. With these evidences research and exploration, this dissertatien tries to unravel the pattern weaving technolosy in the Ming dynasty.The Ming dynasty (13681644) inherited the long-standing culture in China, of course including the textile technology. Besides a large amount of single color damask silk, many pattern woven silk including dragon robes, patterned costumes and luxurious silk textiles are found in complicated and colorful pattern woven brocade called zhuang hua. It was prevailed in Ming dynasty when compared with the frequency of the name zhuang hua recorded in related historical documents. These pattern silk and brocade were produced by the advanced pattern weaving technology, which was well developed in Ming dynasty. From historical documents of “Tian gong kai wu”, Exploitation of the works of nature, there is the detailed description of the draw loom (hua lo ji) which can weave normal patterned textiles. It also indicated that to produce dragon robes needed much more high technique, similar to the hua lo ji but more complicated and difficult. A big draw loom is found to weave Nanjing Yun brocade today inherits the technology to weave zhuang hua brocade. After sorting the historical documents, it is found that some records are coincident with the existed materials, both the silk textiles and weaving technology. With these evidences research and exploration, this dissertation tries to unravel the pattern weaving technology in the Ming dynasty.

关 键 词：pattern weaving draw loom textile history Tian gong kai wu Ming dynasty. 

分 类 号：TS1-19[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]