拉细羊毛及其混纺织物的结构与光泽  

Luster and structure of Optim fiber and its blended fabrics

作　　者：杨建忠[1] 李波[1] 鹿璐[1] 李伟 

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学,陕西西安710048 [2]兰州三毛实业股份有限公司,甘肃兰州730060

出　　处：《纺织学报》2007年第2期17-20,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部新世纪优秀人才支持计划项目(NCET-04-0974)

摘　　要：针对拉细羊毛(Optim)纤维纯纺及其混纺织物,应用扫描电子显微镜观察拉细羊毛及其织物的表观形态结构,测试了织物压缩性和织物的光泽,进行了织物因子聚类分析。研究结果表明:拉细羊毛织物的纤维卷曲少,纤维由椭圆形变成略带多边形,鳞片间距变大;织物内纱线纤维挤得比较紧,织物压缩平均厚度值小,表面厚度较小;织物的正反射、漫反射光强和对比光泽度较大,呈现良好的光泽和平滑性。织物因子聚类分析表明:纯拉细羊毛织物处于细羊毛和羊毛/蚕丝混纺织物之间,拉细羊毛织物具有丝般光泽。The morphology of Optim fiber and Optim cloth was observed by scanning electron microscopy （SEM）, and the compressibility and luster of the fabric were measured. The cluster analysis of fabrics was carried out. The results showed that the fibers of Optim cloth have fewer crimps, the shape of the fibers becomes from elliptical to somewhat polygonal, and the distance between scales of the wool fiber is enlarged. The Optim cloth has a compact structure, smaller average compressed thickness, larger intensity of reflection light and diffuse reflection light, stronger contrast gloss, and good luster and smoothness. The cluster analysis of the fabrics shows that the quality of Optim cloth lies between the fine wool fabric and fine wool/silk blended fabric, and the Optim cloth has silky luster.

关 键 词：织物结构 光泽 压缩性 拉细羊毛 混纺织物 

分 类 号：TS101.92[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]