双面花纹提花织物结构设计原理和方法  

Principle and Method of Structure Design for Figured Double-face Jacquard Fabric

作　　者：周赳[1,2] 吴文正[2] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018 [2]香港理工大学纺织与制衣学系,中国香港

出　　处：《东华大学学报（自然科学版）》2008年第1期44-47,55,共5页Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science)

基　　金：先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室(浙江理工大学)开放基金项目(2006KF07)

摘　　要：数码设计技术的应用,为传统双面花纹效果提花织物的设计创新提供了条件,其创新的实质在于改变传统的提花织物的结构设计理念.通过分析数码设计技术的应用特点,对双面花纹提花织物的结构设计原理进行深入探讨,并提出一种便捷的设计方法.其结构设计的基本原理是先设计织物的正反面结构图,再利用分层组合的方法将正反面的织物结构图进行组合,通过规则的接结组织使双面效果的织物结构合为一个整体,并满足表组织对里组织具有遮盖效应.由于该结构设计方法满足全息组织和组织库的应用,对用于织物正反面效果设计的图案题材没有限制,设计产品在结构上具有平衡交织的特点,可以用于大批量生产,具有良好的应用前景.The application of digital design technology has provided the condition for design innovation of traditional figured double-face jacquard fabrie, in whieh the innovative essential is that changing the traditional design concept of fabrie strueture. The design prineiple of figured double-faee jaequard fabric was investigated deeply based on analysis of feature of application digital design technology; and then, an efficient structural design method is presented. The design theory is that, by using regular stitch weaves, figured double-face jacquard fabric will be taken shape upon combination of face and back structure being designed respectively by a layered combination way. The back structure of fabric is covered by face structure. For meets the requirement of application of gamut weaves and its weave-database, this structure design method can be used to deign figured double-face jacquard fabric without any restriction to pattern motif. Moreover, the designed fabric features balanced interlacement, posing no problem in mass production, which is of great benefit to application.

关 键 词：数码 双面花纹 提花织物 接结组织 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS105.1