粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析  

Analysis on characteristics of infragravity waves in nerashore zone of Houjiang Bay,Guangdong province

作　　者：冯砚青[1] 陈子燊[2] 

机构地区：[1]国家海洋局南海工程勘察中心,广东广州510300 [2]中山大学水资源与环境系,广东广州510275

出　　处：《热带海洋学报》2008年第3期14-18,共5页Journal of Tropical Oceanography

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(40276030);国家海洋局南海分局局长基金资助项目(0605)

摘　　要：利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析。分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点。Based on the sea water pressure data at four measuring points in the nearshore zone of Houjiang Bay in Guangdong province, the parameters of incident wave height, infragravity wave height, wave steep- ness, wave surface spectrum, wave spectrum bandwidth and wave peakedness were calculated and analyzed using wave spectrum analyzing methods. The results show that in the conditions of waves moving from offshore to coastal zones in the nearshore zone of finite water depth, （1） the wave height of infragravity wave becomes larger and largest in the broken and surfer zones, respectively; （2） the wave height of incident wave becomes largest in the wave broken zone too, but it becomes larger first and then smaller during wave moving process; （3） the parameters of wave steepness and wave spectrum bandwidth show increasing trends; and （4） the peak band of wave energy spectrum transfers towards lower and higher frequency band.

关 键 词：长重力波 碎波带 波谱 有限水深 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]