海滩体积时空变化和波浪场的奇异谱分析  

A singular spectrum analysis between the spatial and temporal changes of beach volumes and wave fields

作　　者：戴志军[1] 路海亭[1] 欧素英[2] 李春初[2] 陈建勇[1] 

机构地区：[1]华东师范大学河口海岸学国家重点实验室,上海200062 [2]中山大学河口海岸研究所,广东广州510275

出　　处：《海洋学报》2008年第3期133-139,共7页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(4050602140771200);上海市科技启明星资助项目(06QA14016)

摘　　要：海滩响应波浪动力作用的变化是海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重要内容。利用奇异谱分解方法对南湾海滩连续实测剖面的体积变化值与南湾逐日波高变化值的相关关系进行了探讨,以诊断分析波浪在海滩变化过程中的内在作用机制,结果表明:(1)海滩体积的时空变化与波浪作用力有明显的相关关系;(2)海滩响应波浪动力作用变化最明显的地方是在中间岸段,在直线岸段次之,在遮蔽岸段最弱;(3)对海滩变化有较强作用的波浪场分别位于近岸及其与上下岬角连线的邻近区域。It is an important part of the studies of the coastal land-ocean interaction for the changes of the beach in response to the wave dynamic action. The relationship between the volumes of continuously measured profiles in Nanwan beach and the variable wave heights of Nanwan nearshore region was discussed by using a singular spectrum analysis method, with which singular vector space distribution pattern was obtained. The results were shown as follows. （1） There was close relationship between the changes of beach volumes and wave dynamic action; （2）the sensitivity of response of the middle segment of the beach was obvious to the wave dynamic action;the sensitivity in the straight-line segment was the next in order; the sensitivity in the shadow zone was the weakest; （3） the related area between the wave field of the nearshore region and the beach field was obvious, which was a key area primarily located in the middle segment of the beach, nearshore zone and the adjacent area of the line between the capes stretched out into the sea.

关 键 词：海滩 波浪动力 奇异谱分析 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]