Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect:Regular Waves  

作　　者：金红 邹志利 

机构地区：[1]State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2008年第3期431-444,共14页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50479053 and10672034);the Programfor Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin University;the foundation for doctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China

摘　　要：A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.

关 键 词：mild slope equation hyperbolic model nonlinear waves breaking waves 

分 类 号：O353.2[理学—流体力学]