基于数码织造技术的“织成”服装面料的创新开发  

Innovative and Development of the "Zhicheng" Garment Fabrics Based on the Digital Weaving Technology

作　　者：黄春娜[1,2] 沈干[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织与材料学院,杭州310018 [2]上海天祥质量技术服务有限公司杭州分公司实验室P组,杭州310000

出　　处：《丝绸》2008年第10期13-16,共4页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：在分析传统"织成"的生产技术基础上,提出运用现代数码织造技术开发"织成"服装面料的新思路,为传统织物的保护、继承和发扬探索一条新的途径,同时围绕"织成"服装面料的设计应用与开发,讨论了纹样设计、组织选择、色卡配合等具体设计方法,并通过数码织造,进行了产品的实验,对"织成"传统的生产工艺进行优化的途径做出了初步的探讨。为了应用于"织成"服装面料,选用真丝仿真彩色织物色卡,并通过建立相应的计算机颜色与组织模型,使由色经、色纬及组织结合所表现出的织物色能够与计算机屏幕显示出的纹样色快速、准确地达成一致。Based on analyzing the traditional process technology, a new idea used the modern digital weaving technology to develop ＂zhieheng＂ productions is proposed, which gropes for a new approach to protect, inherit and develop our traditional fabrics. Centering on the design, application and development of the ＂zhicheng＂ garment fabrics , the tailed design methods are discussed, such as pattern design, weave chosen and ehromatogram fitting-in and so on. Through digital weaving and product experiments, a preliminary investigation of optimizing ＂zhicheng＂ traditional processing technique is conducted. In order to apply the ＂zhicheng＂ garment fabrics, silk emulational colored textile chromatogram is choosed, which holds the consistency quickly correctly between the simulated color created by colored warps, colored wefts and weave strueture and the color shown on the screen, by establishing the corresponding computer color and weave model.

关 键 词：“织成”服装面料 仿真彩色 纹样设计 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]