面料方向性对裙装造型的影响  

Effects of Fabric Directions on Skirt Sculpt

作　　者：凌小燕[1] 唐虹[2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装学院,上海200051 [2]南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《丝绸》2008年第12期46-48,51,共4页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：选择一种各向异性特征显著的面料,通过FAST织物性能测试系统,对其不同方向的力学性能,如弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能等进行测试分析,研究其变化规律。基于同一A型裙版型,研究不同方向的裙装造型特征的变化情况,通过数学软件对其各丝缕方向的面料力学性能及裙装造型特征进行综合分析。结果表明:面料方向的改变对裙装的特征能够产生很大的影响,并且面料的力学性能对裙装特征的相关性不一样,由此对改变面料丝缕方向影响裙装造型进行预测。Using FAST testing system, one kind of fabrics with variously significant performance in different directions is selected to study its performances and changed regularity, including bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity and so on. Based on the same type of A skirt, skirt shapes in different directions are studied. Mathematical softwares are used to analysis fabric mechanical performance of different directions and skirt shape factors. The results showed that the changes of fabric directions have very great effort on skirt sculpt; and the relativity of mechanical properties on fabric skirt is not the same and thus to predict the effect of changing fabric directions to skirt shapes.

关 键 词：面料方向性 裙装造型 FAST系统 数学软件 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]