桑叶提取液对丝绸织物的染色性研究  

Dyeing Characteristics of Extraction From Mulberry Leaves on Silk Fabrics

作　　者：邓一民[1] 张高军[1] 刘敏[1] 安永强[1] 陈娟[1] 凌国宇[1] 张艺[1] 

机构地区：[1]西南大学纺织服装学院,重庆400715

出　　处：《蚕业科学》2008年第4期689-693,共5页ACTA SERICOLOGICA SINICA

摘　　要：基于探索桑叶综合利用新途径以及开发无公害染色丝绸织物的目的，以沸水及微波提取法获得的桑叶提取液作为丝绸织物的染料。采用不同提取荆对桑叶染料的萃取效果显示，以碱液提取最为有效，桑叶染色液的最大吸收峰值在420～450nm间，且高浓度碱液提取桑叶染色液的染色效果好、耐贮藏。桑叶染色液的黄酮含量与明度值呈负相关，与偏绿值呈正相关。对染色丝织物的性能测试表明：桑叶提取液染色丝织品的耐皂洗牢度及湿牢度好，但耐光牢度较差；染色丝织物的色谱为黄绿色系，媒染不能改变色谱性质，仅有颜色深浅的变化。试验表明，桑叶提取液可作为丝绸织物染色的天然植源性黄绿色染料，建议应用于丝织品染色的工艺条件为：温度60～80℃，时间60min。pH6．5～7．5。To explore new ways for comprehensive utilization of mulberry leaves and develop the green dyeing method for silk fabrics, extraction from mulberry leaves （EML） by methods of boiling water and microwave was used as a natural dye for silk fabrics in this paper. At first, we investigated the extracting effect of different extraction agents. The result showed that alkaline solution was the best extraction agent, the maximum absorption peak of EML was between 420 and 450 nm, and its dyeing result was fine. Flavonoid content in EML was negative correlation with lightness value, and positive correlation with the yellow-green color. Secondly, we tested the characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with EML. The result indicated that its soaping fastness and wet friction fastness was good, but light fastness was poor. The colour spectrum of dyed silk fabrics belonged to greenyetlow system. Mordanting can not change the feature of cotour spectrum, but resulted in variation of color depth. The above results suggested that mulberry leaves can be used as natural botanical sources of yellow-green dye. We proposed the technological conditions for silk fabrics dyed with EML as following, temperature 60～80℃, dying duration 60 min, and pH 6.5～7.5.

关 键 词：桑叶 综合利用 天然植物染料 丝绸 色谱 牢度 

分 类 号：TS193.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]