Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect:Random Waves  

作　　者：邹志利 金红 

机构地区：[1]State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology [2]Dalian Municipal Design and Research Institute of Environmental Science

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2008年第4期595-610,共16页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.50479053and10672034);the Program for Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin University,and thefoundationfordoctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China

摘　　要：New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is gready saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements.

关 键 词：mild slope equations hyperbolic model random waves nonlinear wave 

分 类 号：O353.2[理学—流体力学]