海滩前滨滩坎地形动力过程分析  

Analysis on morphodynamic processes of scarps in beach foreshore

作　　者：王扬圣[1] 陈子燊[1] 刘萌伟[1] 黄德全[1] 

机构地区：[1]中山大学水资源与环境系,广东广州510275

出　　处：《台湾海峡》2009年第1期113-117,共5页Journal of Oceanography In Taiwan Strait

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(40576041)

摘　　要：根据2006年8月在粤东后江湾海滩收集的滩坎、波浪及地下水位资料,分析了在波浪、潮汐、水下地形等多种影响因子作用下的滩坎地形动力过程.结果表明,显著波陡大则滩坎高度大,反之滩坎高度小;涨潮时滩坎向岸移动,落潮时向海移动;滩坎高度与显著波陡、潮位非线性关系为:ZS=0.528 3S0S.046 7(gH)0.013 4;水下沙脊-细沟地形是滩坎演变重要影响因素;台风期间滩坎受侵蚀,台风后堆积;卷破波是滩坎形成的直接驱动力.Based on the data of beach scarps, waves and tide levels of Houjiang Bay of eastern Guangdong during August 2 - 16,2006, morphodynamie processes of beach scarps under the effects of waves, underwater topography, tide and other factors are analyzed. It shows that beach scarp heights are closely related with the significant wave steepness. Tides in rising or falling stages have different impacts on the moving of beach scarps. The nonlinear equation of beach scarp heights （ Zs ） related with significant wave steepneses （ Ss ） and tide levels （η） can expressed as ： Zs = 0. 528 3Ss^0.04167 （gη）^0.0134. Underwater ridges-runnels topography has important effects on the evolution of beach scarps. Beach scarps were eroded during typhoon stage and deposited after typhoon. The plunging breaker is the immediate drive in shaping the beach scarps in steep beach face.

关 键 词：滩坎 显著波陡 潮位 台风 地形动力过程 

分 类 号：P737[天文地球—海洋地质]