基于面料弹性的贴体针织衣身结构研究  

Investigation of the intimate knitted body structure based on the fabric elasticity

作　　者：刘咏梅[1] 何海洋[1] 姚娟[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装学院,上海200051

出　　处：《针织工业》2009年第2期27-30,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：在15种针织面料中选择4种弹性伸长率差异较大的面料,通过立体构成的方法设计贴体衣身样板,并与梭织面料贴体衣身进行对比试验,介绍了试验步骤,并对试验结果进行分析,结果表明:贴体型针织衣身能够在面料的弹性限度下消除部分衣身浮余量,未消除的浮余量转移到袖窿、领窝等处;贴体型针织衣身样板中各针织面料横向尺寸差异较大,而纵向尺寸间的差异相对较小;针织衣身前胸围、后胸围、背宽尺寸相对于梭织衣身相应部位均有不同程度的缩小,前横开领宽、前肩宽尺寸均大于梭织衣身相应部位的尺寸,胸宽、后横开领宽、后肩宽尺寸的差值随着针织面料弹性伸长率的增加而呈现负值。From 15 kinds of knitted fabrics, this paper selects 4 kinds with distinct elastic elongations, designs the pattern plate of intimate body structure using the three dimensional constructing method, then compares with that of woven fabric and introduces the experimental steps, and at last analyzes the experimental results. It is shown that the intimate knitted body can remove part of the excess with the elastic limit and the un-removed excess transfers to the armhole and neckline; the horizontal sizes of the pattern plate of intimate knitted body give obvious discrepancy and the vertical sizes give relatively less discrepancy; the anterior chest width, posterior chest width and back width of intimate knitted body are smaller than those of woven body to different extents, and the neck width and posterior shoulder width are bigger than those of woven body.

关 键 词：弹性伸长率 贴体针织衣身 梭织衣身 前胸围 背宽尺寸 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]