采用正交实验进行服装缝纫工艺的参数设计  

Sewing parameters design by use of orthogonal test

作　　者：陆鑫[1] 吴世刚[1] 顾韵芬[2] 唐修霞[2] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院,辽宁丹东118003 [2]扬州职业大学,江苏扬州225009

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2009年第3期18-20,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：丹东市科学技术计划资助项目(06141)

摘　　要：缝口强度是服装企业成衣加工质量控制的要素,研究仅选择成衣生产中缝迹、缝线强度、线迹密度和针尖形状等缝纫参数进行正交实验,求得优化的缝纫工艺参数组合。研究表明,对于弹力面料来说,优化的缝纫参数组合为:双线链式缝迹,缝纫线为30.9 tex的涤纶线,线迹密度为14针/3 cm,针尖形状为U形;缝迹对缝口强度的影响最大,缝线强度和线迹密度对缝口强度的影响力相当;针尖形状对缝口强度的影响最小。Seam strength is an essential element to the quality control of garment process in garment enterprise. The orthogonal test is conducted by choosing only some sewing parameters, such as seaming stitch, thread strength, stitch density and needlepoint form to get the optimum combination of sewing parameters so as to provide the necessary reference for garment processing control of garment enterprise. The research result shows that for elastic fabric, use of double chain stitch, polyester thread of 30. 9tex, stitch density of 14 stitches per 3 centimeter, U shape pin is the optimum combination of sewing parameters. And the influence of seaming stitch on seam strength is the maximum; the thread strength and stitch density are the second whilst the influence of needlepoint form on seam strength is minimum.

关 键 词：缝纫 工艺参数 工艺设计 缝接牢度 缝迹 缝线强度 线迹密度 正交设计 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]