男装休闲面料设计及形态风格评价  

Men′s leisure fabric design and shape style physical evaluation

作　　者：倪冰选[1] 焦晓宁[1] 

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织学院,天津300160

出　　处：《纺织学报》2009年第6期44-48,共5页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：以竹浆纤维、棉和涤纶为原料,采用变化纵条纹组织,配合适当的上机工艺和后整理工艺,开发出一种具有休闲风格的男装面料。对所开发面料进行物理机械性能测试,用织物动态悬垂性风格仪测试面料的动静态悬垂曲面形态,通过织物动静态悬垂曲面投影图和悬垂性测试数据,计算出表征织物悬垂曲面形态风格的8个物理特征值。根据主因子算法,利用8个物理特征值和5个主因子的正交多项式算出5个主因子的得分,曲面因子的值为31.015 7,该值最大,说明该项风格特征在这块面料上表现得最明显。结果表明,所设计面料的曲面造型顺畅,适合用于男装休闲面料。With bamboo fiber, cotton and polyester fiber as raw material, the experiment has developed a men＇s leisure fabric by varying the vertical stripe weave, coupled with proper looming technics and finishing. The physical performances of the fabric were measured, and the dynamic and static state draping surface style was tested by draping style apparatus. In addition, through the fabric＇s dynamic and static state draping surface projections and the tested data of draping property, eight physical eigenvalues of draping surface style were figured out. Finally, according to main factor arithmetic, the orthogonal polynomial of eight physical eigenvalues and five main factors were utilized to calculate the scoring of the five main factors. The draped surface factor value is 31.015 7, it is the largest value of the five factors. It shows that this style characteristic is the most obvious one in the fabric. The result indicates that the fabric＇s draped surface sculpt is smooth, and it is fit of men＇s leisure fabric.

关 键 词：休闲面料 设计 形态风格 主因子 评价 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]