未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式  

A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

作　　者：刘新安[1] 黄培基[1] 陈雪英[1] 胡泽建[1] 

机构地区：[1]国家海洋局第一海洋研究所

出　　处：《海洋学报》1998年第3期12-18,共7页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金;国家海洋局青年基金;育场海洋大学物理海洋实验室开放基金

摘　　要：利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩（或波面偏度）相对于Ｈｓ／ｄ的空间演化，利用本文的经验关系，在二阶近似下，给出了以Ｈｓ／ｄ为参量的非线性波面表示模式，并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量。文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系。In this paper, the spatial evolution of the third-order moment (i. e. . the skewness ) of the sea surface elevation for nonbreaking shoaling random waves versus Hs/d is analyzed by using the data obtained in field and laboratory. Using the empirical relationship given in this paper, the nonlinear model for the sea surface elevation of nonbreaking shoaling waves in the second-order approximation by expanding the first two terms of Hermitian polynomial is depicted by the parameter Hs/d, and such characteristics as the power spec- trum, the bispectrum and the distribution function of sea surface elevation as well have been derived in this paper. The correlation between the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface elevation is also discussed.

关 键 词：变浅 随机海浪 非线性模式 海浪 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]