基于面料性能的主体结构线设计对女上装廓型的影响  

Impact of main structure line on silhouette of women's upper garments in fabric performance

作　　者：吴志明[1] 曹叶青[2] 戴雪霞[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]泰山学院服装系,山东泰安271021

出　　处：《天津工业大学学报》2009年第5期23-26,41,共5页Journal of Tiangong University

基　　金：江苏省教育厅2009年度高校哲学社会科学基金指导项目(2009SJD760011)

摘　　要：研究在不同的面料性能下主体结构线设计对女上装廓型的影响.选择女上装常用的7种面料,用KES-FB织物风格仪测试出面料的力学性能指标,运用位置移动法、数量增减法、形状优化法和多元组合法,设计12种款式,根据穿着于标准84A型人台的成衣效果进行对比分析.结果表明,主体结构线的设计因素和面料性能对女上装廓型的变化有影响,主体结构线的位置、数量、走向和长短对女上装廓型的影响比较明显;面料的剪切性能、弯曲性能和硬挺度对女上装廓型变化影响较大.The impact of the main structure line on the silhouette of women＇s upper garments in different fabric performance is studied. Seven kinds of fabrics commonly used for women＇s garments are chosen,and the mechanical properties are tested by KES-FB system respectively. Then, twelve styles designed are by moving the position of single structure line, increasing or decreasing the amount the lines, changing the trend of the lines and a combination of different elements. And the effects of these design are compared by applying the clothes therefore made to standard 84A model. The result shows that the changing of women＇s garments silhouette would be affected by the design factors of main structure line and the fabric performance. The position, quantity, direction and length of main structure line effect on women＇s garments silhouette obviously; And the fabric＇s shear property, bending property and stiffness effect on women＇s garments silhouette.

关 键 词：主体结构线 面料性能 女上装 廓型 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]