男西服肩袖造型分析  

Analysis on the Factors Influencing Shoulder and Sleeve Solid Moulds for Man’s Suits

作　　者：陈谦[1] 张冬[2] 

机构地区：[1]中原工学院 [2]郑州旅游职业学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2010年第1期74-76,共3页China Textile Leader

基　　金：教育部留学回国人员科研启动基金项目(教外司留[2009]8号);河南省教育厅自然科学研究计划项目(2009B540004)

摘　　要：本文探讨影响肩袖造型的结构因素,进行了大量结构图参数与对应的成品参数测量,建立男西服肩部几何模型,对不同年代的西服肩部立体形态进行分类。课题深入到影响肩袖造型的不可见元素——袖山衬料,分析袖山填充材料的结构外形和结构配置数据,通过实验验证不同结构形态的袖山衬料(不同曲率)对成品西服袖山部位形态的影响,得出袖山形态与袖山衬料结构间的相互关系。通过掌握结构参数与成品几何形态间的关系控制肩袖部位造型,为服装生产提供理论依据。This paper studies the structural factors influencing the soild moulds of shoulders and sleeves, shape changing in sleeve volume. It systematically analyses the invisible element--lining material of sleeve caps, which can influence the shapes of shoulders and sleeves, including shapes of stuff and configurative data. It systematically analyses the invisible element--lining material of sleeve caps, which can influence the shapes of shoulders and sleeves, including shapes of stuff and configurative data. The experiments also verify that lining material of sleeve caps (with different curvatures) can influence their volume and shape. The paper has concluded descriptively and quantitatively that there is the correlativity between the volume of sleeve caps and structural shapes of lining material. This law can be used to control sleeve moulds and supply the standarized structural configuration schemes for industrilized garment production.

关 键 词：造型分析 男西服 结构因素 参数测量 几何模型 立体形态 图参数 肩部 

分 类 号：TS941.718.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]