线密度和组织结构对牛仔面料保型性的影响  

Jean fabric shape retention as affected by yarn linear density and fabric structure

作　　者：周蛟[1] 王际平[2] 冯新星[1] 陈建勇[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018 [2]美国宝洁公司,美国辛辛那提市45202

出　　处：《纺织学报》2010年第1期44-47,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：973计划前期研究专项课题(2008CB617506);长江学者和创新团队发展计划资助项目(IRT0654);美国P&G公司研究基金资助项目(070501-J)

摘　　要：针对牛仔服装在穿着时受到外力、环境等因素影响易变形走样的问题,通过分析5种全棉面料的松弛曲线图,研究纱线线密度和面料组织结构对牛仔面料保型性的影响。这5种面料的纱线线密度、经向密度、纬向密度和组织结构呈现出一定的规律。通过分析他们的松弛曲线图得出:牛仔面料所用的纱线线密度和组织结构对牛仔面料的保型性有较大影响,即当面料在其他规格相同的情况下,纱线线密度低的牛仔面料其保型性好于纱线线密度高的面料,组织为3/1的牛仔面料的保型性能好于组织为2/1的牛仔面料。The shape of jean will be changed due to long time use. The factors that affect the shape distortion of the jeans during wear include extra force and environment. To improve the shape retention capability of jean fabrics, five kinds of jean fabrics were selected to study the relationship between specifications and shape retention of jean fabrics. The yarn count, warp and weft densities, and structure of jean fabrics show a certain degree of regularity. It is found by analyzing their relaxation curves that the yarn count and organizational structure of the denim fabric have great impact on shape retention, that is, when denim fabric specifications in other circumstances are the same, the finner the yarn, the better the performance of shape retention. As for structure, the shape retention of 3/1 is better than that of 2/1.

关 键 词：牛仔面料 保型 回复 应力松弛 

分 类 号：TS116[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]