高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中α-、β-熊果苷及烟酰胺  

Determination of α-arbutin,β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography

作　　者：程鹏[1] 陈梅兰[2] 朱岩[1,3] 

机构地区：[1]桂林理工大学化学与生物工程学院,广西桂林541004 [2]浙江树人大学生物与环境工程学院,浙江杭州310015 [3]浙江大学理学院化学系,浙江杭州310028

出　　处：《色谱》2010年第1期89-92,共4页Chinese Journal of Chromatography

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(No.20775070);浙江省自然科学基金(Nos.R4080124;Y507252);浙江省分析测试基金(No.2007F70061);浙江省钱江人才计划(No.2008R10028)项目

摘　　要：建立了美白类化妆品中熊果苷的两种光学异构体α-熊果苷和β-熊果苷及烟酰胺的高效液相色谱检测方法。样品用氯化钠水溶液-氯仿(2∶1,v/v)进行萃取。固定相为依利特ODS-BP柱(200mm×4.6mm,5μm),流动相为甲醇-水(10∶90,v/v),柱温为25℃,检测波长为220nm,流速为0.5mL/min,进样量为20μL。在上述条件下α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷和烟酰胺的质量浓度依次在0.07～50,0.06～50,0.05～50mg/L时与色谱峰面积之间的线性关系良好,相对标准偏差(n=7)分别为1.65%、1.73%和1.33%。将该方法用于化妆品的检测,回收率为91.7%～109.6%。该法简便、快速、准确,可用于化妆品美白成分的测定。A high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method for the determination of two optical isomers of arbutin （α-arbutin and β-arbutin） and niacinamide in cosmetics was developed. The samples were extracted by the mixture of salt water and chloroform （2∶1, v/v）. The separation was performed on an ODS-BP column （200 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm, Elite） with methanol-water （10∶90, v/v） as the mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.5 mL/min and 25 ℃. The detection wavelength was set at 220 nm and the sample injection volume was 20 μL. There were good linear relationships between the mass concentration and the peak areas of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in the ranges of 0.07-50, 0.06-50 and 0.05-50 mg/L, respectively. The relative standard deviations （RSDs, n=7） of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide were 1.65%, 1.73% and 1.33%, respectively. The proposed method has been applied for the determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics with recoveries of 91.7%-109.6%. This method is rapid, simple and suitable for the detection of whitening ingredients in cosmetic.

关 键 词：高效液相色谱 α-熊果苷 β-熊果苷 烟酰胺 化妆品 

分 类 号：O658[理学—分析化学]