新型针织牛仔面料的研发  

Investigation of new type of knitted jeans fabric

作　　者：方太君 倪桂林 

机构地区：[1]南通依派针织有限公司,江苏南通226009 [2]南通岩井服饰有限公司,江苏南通226009

出　　处：《针织工业》2010年第3期3-5,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了开发针织牛仔面料的总体思路,并以添纱鱼鳞面料和添纱斜纹面料为例,阐述了开发此面料的具体实现过程,包括:设备参数、原料、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式和面料参数。在此基础上对这两种面料进行了织物性能测试,包括顶破强力、耐磨性能、透气性能测试。分析得出:按照此种思路设计面料时应主要考虑顶破强力和透气性,可通过改变纱线的种类、线密度以及织物组织等因素来实现对这两种性能的调节。This paper introduces the general method of developing knitted jeans fabrics,and then taking the plated fish-scale fabric and plated diagonal fabric as examples,presents the knitting details including equipment parameter setup,raw material selection,needle arrangement,cam arrangement,yarn threading ways and fabric parameters. In addition,this paper tests the bursting strength,wear-resistance and air permeability of the developed fabrics. It can be concluded that the bursting strength and air permeability should be considered particularly,and they will change interns of yarn types,yarn fineness and stitch patterns.

关 键 词：纬编 针织牛仔 面料开发 添纱组织 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]