缝纫形式与参数对丝绸面料缝口强度的影响  

Effect of sewing form and parameters on seam strength of silk fabric

作　　者：陆鑫[1] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2010年第5期39-41,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：丹东市科学技术计划资助项目(06141)

摘　　要：对薄厚不同的两种真丝面料,选择常用的平缝、压缉缝、内包缝以及垫布缝4种缝纫形式,及线迹密度、缝纫线细度2个因素,其余缝纫条件在实验过程中保持一致,进行单因素下5次以上的测试实验。测试不同缝纫条件下真丝面料的接缝强力、断裂伸长率等特性。研究表明,随着线迹密度的增大,织物的断裂强力及断裂伸长率先增大后减小。随着缝纫线细度变细,断裂强力及断裂伸长率均减小。薄型丝织物中面料的缝纫外观等级随着面料厚度的增加有所改善。并以生产实践为例,找出最佳工艺参数,提出了改善与提高真丝面料缝口性能的理论与方法。The experiment is conducted by choosing two kinds of silk fabrics with different thickness, four kinds of commonly used sewing forms of plain stitch, pressed stitch, inner overlook stitch and cloth pad stitch, and two factors of stitch density and sewing thread fineness with other sewing conditions remained the same. The experiment is conducted more than five times under the single factor to test the characters of seam strength and breaking elongation of the silk fabric under the different sewing conditions. The research shows that the breaking strength and elongation of the fabric increase first and then decrease with the stitch density becoming larger while the breaking strength and elongation of the fabrics decrease with sewing thread fineness becoming thin. The sewing appearance grade of the thin silk fabric will become better with the fabric thickness increased. Best processing parameters are found out in practical production which provides theory and methods to improve seam property of silk fabric.

关 键 词：丝绸 缝纫 缝迹 强度 形式 参数 

分 类 号：TS941.498.9[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]