桑蚕丝平纹织物的纰裂性能  

Theoretical analysis on slipping property of plain silk fabrics

作　　者：钱有清 赵娟[2] 左保齐[3] 

机构地区：[1]中国丝绸协会,北京100034 [2]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021 [3]苏州大学现代丝绸国家工程实验室,江苏苏州215123

出　　处：《纺织学报》2010年第5期38-43,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家发改委资助项目(财企[2006]419号)

摘　　要：桑蚕丝织物在使用过程中,纱线的滑移即纰裂是影响其视觉风格和服用性能的关键因素,它受到纱线性能和织物结构参数的影响。从Peirce的织物结构模型出发,对拉伸过程中织物单根经纬纱交织点处受力进行分析,提出了计算平纹桑蚕丝织物纱线滑移的模型。从理论与实践上建立了桑蚕丝织物结构参数与其纰裂性之间的关系,在织物设计之前就能够预先估算织物的滑移阻力,为桑蚕丝织物的开发设计提供了理论依据。Slipping of silk fabric during serviceability is a critical factor which influences fabric style and garment wearability.The slipping has a close relationship with such factors as fiber,yarn and fabric structures.Peirce＇ s Rigid-thread Model of the woven fabric was used to analyze the strength being subjected at the crossing point of single warp and weft during the process of stretching,and a mathematical model for calculating the slippage resistance of yarns in plain silk fabric was proposed.The relationship between structural parameter and slipping property of silk fabric was established both in theoretical and practical aspects for estimation of slippage resistance of yarns in silk fabric,thus providing a theoretical basis for the development and design of silk fabrics.

关 键 词：平纹桑蚕丝织物 纰裂性能 结构参数 滑移阻力 数学模型 

分 类 号：TS141.92[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]