近岸过程与海岸侵蚀机制研究进展  

Progresses on Study of Nearshore Processes and Coastal Erosion Mechanisms

作　　者：陈子燊[1,2] 于吉涛[2] 罗智丰[2] 

机构地区：[1]国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,福建厦门361005 [2]中山大学水资源与环境系,广东广州510275

出　　处：《海洋科学进展》2010年第2期250-256,共7页Advances in Marine Science

基　　金：我国近海海洋综合调查与评价专项课题--海岸侵蚀现状评价与防治技术研究(908-02-03-04);国家自然科学基金--极端波况下沙质海岸前滨地形动力与侵蚀机制研究(40576041)

摘　　要：首先简单介绍了砂质海岸近岸地形动力过程的时空多尺度特征及其复杂性,海岸系统相互依存的3个方面和近岸带地形动力基本特征;进而从5个方面论述了国内外对砂质海岸侵蚀地形动力过程与机制研究的进展:1)长重力波运动与海岸侵蚀;2)近岸环流、波增水、底流运动与岸滩侵蚀;3)海滩-碎波带地形动力状态与岸滩侵蚀方式;4)波生沿岸流、沿岸输沙与海岸长期变化;5)海岸侵蚀终极平衡形态规律。最后概括了未来需优先探索的地形动力学问题和研究策略。The multi-scale temporal and spatial variations and complexity of the nearshore morphodynamic processes at sandy coast are briefly introduced, and the three interdependent aspects of coast system and the basic morphodynamic features in the nearshore zone are also represented. The progresses in the study of sandy coast erosion mechanism and morphodynamic processes at home and abroad are discoursed from the following five aspects： 1） the movement of infragravity waves and the erosion of coast~ 2） the near- shore circulations, wave setup and undertow movement and the erosion of beach; 3） the morphodynamic states in beach-surf zone and the mode of beach erosion; 4） the wave-forced longshore currents and longshore sand transportation and the long-term changes of coast; and 5） the rules of shoreline erosion equilibrium form. Finally, the research strategies and the morphodynamic problems which need to be studied first in the future are outlined.

关 键 词：近岸地形动力过程 砂质海岸侵蚀机制 岸线平衡形态模式 研究进展 

分 类 号：P737.23[天文地球—海洋地质]