未破碎变浅随机海浪的波面高度概率分布  

Probability distribution of surface elevations of random non-breaking shoaling sea waves

作　　者：黄培基[1] 陈雪英[1] 刘新安[1] 胡泽建[1] 

机构地区：[1]国家海洋局第一海洋研究所,青岛266003

出　　处：《海洋学报》1999年第1期17-22,共6页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金!49476272;49606071;国家海洋局青年基金!95409;青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室开放基金

摘　　要：利用青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室现代化的大型水槽，设计进行了多种海浪强度下，由深水传入近岸不同坡度水底上的变浅随机海浪的实验．依据实验资料分析结果表明，对变浅非正态海浪过程而言，其波面高度分布取Gram－Charlier级数前3项，所得结果与实验分布符合良好．该分布中a、3个参量是测点水深和波浪强度的函数，并获得了与无因次参量Hs／d之间的经验关系，为预测变浅随机海浪的波面高度分布提供了可能．The experiments of random shoaling sea waves, which propagate on different beach slopes from deep water,were designed and undertaken under seveal wave strengths using the modern large wave flune at the Physical Oceanography Laboratory, Ocean University of Qingdao. On the basis of laboratory data and analysis results, it is shown that for non-normal shoaling wave processes, the distribution of surface eleaation obtained from the experiments is in good agreement with that from the first three terms of Gram--Charlier series. The parameters of this distribution, that is, 3 and 4 are the functions of water depth and wave strengths of measurement points, an empirical relationship with dimensionless parameter is obtained to make it possible to predict the distribution of surface elevation of random shoaling sea waves.

关 键 词：变浅 随机海浪 波面高度 概率分布 海浪 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]