后整理工艺对纯苎麻针织物性能的影响  

Influence of finishing process on properties of knitted ramie fabric

作　　者：凌群民[1] 谭磊[2] 

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104 [2]青岛大学纺织服装学院,山东青岛266071

出　　处：《纺织学报》2010年第7期91-96,共6页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：针对纯苎麻针织物在穿着过程中具有强烈刺痒感的问题,简要阐述苎麻针织物刺痒感产生的原因及降低刺痒感的方法。采用剪毛柔软剂整理、纤维素酶柔软剂整理、柔软剂整理3种工艺对纯苎麻针织物试样进行后整理加工,并对整理后纯苎麻针织物的线圈密度、织物面密度等织物基本规格及纵向拉伸强力、悬垂性能、起毛起球性能、折皱回复性能及织物刺痒感进行了测试与分析。实验结果表明,后整理工艺均能降低纯苎麻针织物刺痒感,但后整理工艺会劣化纯苎麻针织物的基本性能,对拉伸强力的劣化尤为明显。对比分析3种后整理工艺发现,剪毛柔软剂整理的复合整理能有效降低纯苎麻针织物刺痒感,是较为理想的后整理工艺,但对织物力学性能影响较大。Knitted ramie fabrics present strong scratchness during wear.The paper briefly discusses the reason leading to scratchness and how to reduce it.We adopted three kinds of finishing process——the shearing-softening agent treatment（combined treatment）,cellulase-softening agent treatment,and softening agent treatment to finish knitted ramie fabric respectively.The basic properties of the treated fabrics such as stitch density,surface density,tensile strength along with the wale direction,draping,pilling resistance,wrinkle recovery and scratchness were tested.The experimental results show that these finishing processes can reduce the scratchness of knitted ramie fabrics,but will deteriorate the basic properties of the fabrics,especially the tensile strength.It is found through analytical comparison that the shearing-softening agent treatment was the most effective one in reducing the scratchness of knitted ramie fabrics,but with great impact on the mechanical properties of the fabrics.

关 键 词：苎麻 针织物 后整理 织物性能 刺痒感 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]