西服各部位对粘合复合物性能要求分析  

Performance requirements of adhesion complexes in each part of suit

作　　者：徐军[1] 李条条[1] 王成荣[1] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,西安710048

出　　处：《天津工业大学学报》2010年第4期21-24,共4页Journal of Tiangong University

基　　金：陕西省教育厅自然科学专项基金资助项目(09JK463)

摘　　要：从运动受力特点、皮肤滑移、人体关节活动范围和皮肤变形率等角度分析西服领部、肩部、前胸、袖窿、腋下、口袋6个部位对粘合复合物的性能要求.结果表明:领子部位所用的复合物要求经纬向折皱回复性能一般但较硬挺;肩部和袖窿要求经纬向的拉伸性能和折皱回复性能都较强,但硬挺性一般;前身部位要求纬向拉伸性能、悬垂性能和硬挺性都很强;腋下部位要求经纬向拉伸性能和折皱回复性能都很强,但硬挺性较差;口袋部位要求经纬向拉伸性能很差,但折皱回复性能和硬挺性很强.According to the movement on the force,slip on the skin morphology,the human body range of motion and skin deformation rate,the performance requirements of six sites on suit,which include the collar,shoulders,chest,armhole,armpit and pocket,for the bonding compound are analyzed.The results show that the collar parts require the compound with general wrinkle recovery but better stiffness;the shoulder and armhole require the strong tensile and crease recovery properties but general stiffness;the formerly part requires strong filling-tensile,drape properties and stiffness;the armpit requires better stretch and wrinkle recovery but weak stiffness;the pockets require poor tensile properties but the best stiffness and wrinkle recovery.

关 键 词：西服 粘合衬 粘合复合物 运动受力 皮肤滑移 

分 类 号：TS941.712[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS941.498.1