毛/维纶并捻纱生产薄型花呢的工艺  

Study on process of light-weight tweed using doubled yarn of wool and PVA

作　　者：季萍[1] 孙俊河[2] 王春霞[1] 

机构地区：[1]盐城工学院纺织服装学院,江苏盐城224003 [2]江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司,江苏盐城224000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2010年第9期26-28,共3页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：探讨了毛/维纶并捻纱生产薄型花呢的工艺。将水溶性维纶纤维单独纺纱制成13.5 tex的单纱,在后纺与35.7 tex毛纱合股成股线作为经纱,35.7 tex毛纱作为纬纱,在剑杆织机上进行交织,织造时减少断头,提高效率,再通过去维和后整理得到薄型花呢。主要介绍了各工序的关键工艺,剖析了其中的技术难点,提出了相应的解决办法。该薄型花呢手感轻薄、滑爽,具有很好的糯性、弹性,用于制作高档时装。The popularization and application of water-soluble PVA fiber opened up a new way for light and economic wool fabric.The process of light-weight tweed using the doubled yarn of wool and PVA was investigated.The doubled yarn of 35.7 tex wool and 13.5 tex PVA as warp was woven with 35.7 tex wool yarn as weft by Rapier,which could reduce weaving breakage and improve efficiency.The thin tweed was formed by removing PVA and finishing.The key technology of every process was introduced.The technological difficulty was analyzed and the corresponding measures were given.The thin tweed feels thin,smooth,waxy and flexible.It could be made of high fashion.

关 键 词：毛/维纶 并捻纱 薄型花呢 

分 类 号：TS106.81[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]