波群结构和波群中的波破碎  

The Structure of Wave Groups and Wave Breaking in Wave Groups

作　　者：高志一[1,2] 文凡[1] 

机构地区：[1]中国海洋大学物理海洋教育部重点实验室,山东青岛266003 [2]国家海洋环境预报中心,北京100081

出　　处：《中国海洋大学学报（自然科学版）》2010年第9期8-14,共7页Periodical of Ocean University of China

基　　金：教育部新世纪人才支持计划(NCET-08-0509);国家自然科学基金项目(40576007)资助

摘　　要：本文将小波分析用于波群结构和波群中波破碎的研究。实验结果表明,波群中波动的振幅不是关于波群中央对称的,而是波群前部波动的振幅较大。这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波的波陡较大,后部单个波的波陡较小,当谱宽度增大时波群前部与后部单个波的平均波陡之差增大。波群前部波陡较大导致波群前部的波动最容易发生破碎,而不是波群中央的波动最容易发生破碎,波群中波动最可能发生破碎的位置距波群中央的长度为波群长度的1/6。The structure of wave group and wave breaking are studied experimentally. The results of wavelet analysis show that the structure of wave group is asymmetric. The highest wave appears in the front of a wave group rather than in the center of the wave group. The value of steepness of individual waves in the front of a wave group is larger than that in the rear of the wave group. The difference between steepness values of individual waves in the front of and in the rear of wave group increases with the spectral width. The individual waves in the front of a wave group are of larger value of breaking probability. The distance between the position of wave with the max breaking probability in a wave group and the mid point of the wave group is about one sixth of the whole length of the wave group.

关 键 词：波群 波陡 波破碎 

分 类 号：P731.2[天文地球—海洋科学]