袖山缩容量的计算与装配分析  

Calculation and Assembly Analysis of Sleeve Hill Shrink Capacity

作　　者：刘东[1] 

机构地区：[1]惠州学院服装系,惠州516000

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2010年第3期18-23,共6页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

摘　　要：袖子的缝缩量大小直接影响袖子的美观性,它与款式造型及织物性能有关.本文就织物性能与袖子缝缩量的大小关系做了较为细致的讨论,通过数值方法找出了面料厚度与袖山缝缩量之间的相互关系,同时探讨了袖山缝缩量的分配、袖山与袖窿装配位置的确定方法.该方法可以应用于织物性能研究及服装生产,为样板设计人员确定袖子缝缩量带来理论依据.The size of sleeve seam shrinkage is relative to the style of clothing and fabric properties, and influences aesthetics directly. In this paper, the relationship between fabric properties and sleeve seam shrinkage was discussed in detail, and the relationship between the material thickness and the sleeve seam shrinkage was found by numerical method. At the same time, the distribution of the sleeve seam shrinkage, and the determination method of the sleeve and sleeve hole fitting position were discussed. The method can be applied to fabric properties research and the garment production, and also can be used as a theoretical basis of the detemination of sleeve seam shrinkage for sample designers.

关 键 词：缝缩量 袖山 袖窿 一片袖 两片袖 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]