棉类裤装缝口缩皱的影响因素  

Influencing Factors of Cotton Pants Seam Shrinkage

作　　者：屠晔[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》2011年第2期204-208,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)

摘　　要：以棉类裤装为研究案例,通过实验,分析缝缩产生的规律。选用10种厚薄不同的棉质面料用不同的缝制工艺做成裤装,并选择不同的水洗工艺进行后处理,测量样裤主要部位的尺寸缝缩量。测量部位主要考虑对裤装造型产生重要作用的四个部位:侧缝、前浪、后浪、腰头。通过主成分分析和数理统计显示:面密度、面料组织结构、洗水处理和缝制条件是四个影响缝缩的主要因素;其中影响最大的因素为面密度,其次为面密度和缝纫条件的交互作用,另外,丝缕方向也有一定影响。This study aims at analyzing the rule of seam shrinkage through experiment case study on cotton pants.Pants made of 11 kinds of cotton fabrics manufactured in different sewing conditions and washing ways,are tested for seam shrinkage on outseam,front rise,back rise and waistband,the measurements of the four parts are important for pants.The study gets three influencing factors of seam shrinkage through Factor Analysis at first,they are fabric density,fabric structure,washing ways and sewing condition.Then mathematical statistics is used and the result shows that the factors affecting the seam shrinkage of pant,fabric density is in the first place,the interaction of fabric density and sewing condition ranks the second.In addition,grain direction also influences the seam pucker.

关 键 词：缝口皱缩 棉类裤装 面密度 面料组织结构 缝制条件 丝缕方向 

分 类 号：TS941.64[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]