里料对毛料服装悬垂性的影响  

Influence of linings to draping property of clothing

作　　者：朱琴娟[1] 刘成霞[2] 

机构地区：[1]绍兴文理学院纺织服装学院,浙江绍兴312000 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2011年第4期53-57,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为研究里料对服装悬垂性的影响,选取厚薄2种毛织物与10种不同里料为研究对象,并将其缝合成20种不同面里料组合的服装,且分别测试面、里料及其组合后服装的悬垂系数。为定性评价面料及里料对服装悬垂性的影响程度,引进了2个指标,即F面/F服和F里/F服。并用相关分析对实验数据进行统计分析。研究结果表明:加里料后的毛织物服装变得更硬挺,即悬垂系数变大,服装悬垂性的变化范围小于里料的变化范围;里料对毛织物服装的悬垂性起重要作用,对薄型毛织物服装悬垂性的影响甚至大于面料,对厚型毛织物服装悬垂性的影响也不容忽视。里料面密度和厚度是影响厚、薄毛织物服装悬垂性最重要的参数,较为厚重且易下垂的里料对毛织物服装悬垂性的影响程度较小。In order to investigate the influence of linings to the draping property of clothing,two wool fabrics and ten different linings were chosen and made up into twenty clothes.Then the draping coefficient of fabrics,linings and clothings were tested and two specifications were introduced to evaluate the influence of linings to the drapeability of clothings,that is Ff/Fc and Fl/Fc.After that,the correlation analysis was used to process the data and the following conclusions had been made： the fabrics sewn with linings became stiffer.In other words,the draping coefficients of wool clothing with linings were larger than or about the same with those of fabrics.The range of wool clothings draping property was smaller than that of linings.Linings had played very important part in the drapeability of clothings.Linings affected the drapeability of light-weight clothings even more obviously than fabrics did.The influence of linings on heavy-weight clothings were also significant and should not be neglected.The lining specifications that had the largest effect on the draping property of heavy and light-weight wool clothings were weight of per square meter and thickness respectively.The relatively heavy-weight wool fabric that hangs easily will have smaller influence to the draping property of clothing.

关 键 词：里料 毛料服装 悬垂性 影响程度 

分 类 号：TS941.15[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]