褶皱服装放码方法及其放码结果评价研究  

Research on Grading Technology of Pleat Apparel and Its Results Evaluation

作　　者：徐蓉蓉[1] 戴建国[1] 陈美珍[1] 王晓霞[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》2011年第3期351-355,378,共6页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)

摘　　要：在分析褶皱服装及其样板特点的基础上,通过放码实验提出了褶皱服装样板的放码方法。在服装展开前设定放码坐标,每个放码点的放码量按其局部占总体尺寸的比例分配,放码方向由衣片展开后离该点最近的坐标轴向决定。按照这种方法选取10件褶皱服装进行放码,分别用主观和客观的方法评价放码结果,主观方法是用模糊综合评判法对放码前后服装相似性进行评价,客观方法是检验放码后服装尺寸的精确性。评价结果显示这种放码方法准确有效。Based on analyzing characteristics of the pleat apparel and its pattern, a new grading approach of the pleat apparel pattern is developed by grading examples. The coordinate is established before the piece is spread out. The quantity of grading is distributed by proportion of the part and total. The direction of points of the pleat complex structure apparel pattern is defined by coordinate axial direction which is nearest to the point after the piece is spread out. And finally, 10 pleat apparels are graded by this grading approach. This paper analyzes the objective data of apparel＇s measurements after grading and evaluates the similarity of apparel before and after grading by Fuzzy Comprehensive Evaluation. The results show that the grading approach is accurate and effective. It can be used to guide practical industry production.

关 键 词：褶皱服装 放码 模糊综合评判 样板 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]