西服袖窿结构的作用力分析  

Analysis of acting forces resulting from armhole structure of man's suit

作　　者：陈谦[1] 程军红[1] 庹武[1] 

机构地区：[1]中原工学院,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《纺织学报》2011年第5期103-106,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部留学回国人员科研启动基金资助项目(教外司留[2009]8号)

摘　　要：袖窿部位的结构条件和成品形态之间是复杂的非线性关系,通过对男西服袖窿结构进行分析,建立了一种下部袖窿的力学模型,构建了不同作用力与袖窿参数间的相互关系。为分析男西服袖窿部位的不同结构配置以及在不同配置下的袖窿变形规律,通过大量样本测试,获得男西服袖窿切线力、法线力和扭力对袖窿局部稳定性和平顺性的影响,应用力学模型分析了不同作用力与袖窿参数间的相互关系,从而对袖窿结构配置提出理论优化方案,以达到肩袖部位造型性和着装舒适性的统一。The relationship between the structural condition and the ready-made form of armhole is non-linear.Through analyzing the armhole structure of man＇s suit,a mechanical model of the lower armhole is established,and a relationship between different forces and parameters of armhole is built.To analyze the different structural allocation of man＇s suit armhole and the deformation pattern of the different structural allocation,a large number of samples are tested,and the effect of the force of tangent line,normal and tensional stress on the local stability and smooth comfort of man＇ s suit armhole are obtained.The relationships between different forces and parameter of armhole are analyzed by utilizing the mechanical model.A theoretical optimization scheme has been proposed for achieving the unity of mould and comfort of sleeves.

关 键 词：男西服 袖窿 结构配置 作用力 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]