海浪的特征波陡  

ON THE CHARACTERISTIC WAVE STEEPNESS

作　　者：郑桂珍[1] 徐德伦[1] 刘学海 

机构地区：[1]青岛海洋大学,山东青岛266003

出　　处：《海岸工程》1999年第3期5-12,共8页Coastal Engineering

摘　　要：在现有的海浪要素统计分布的理论框架下具体地推导了二维海浪波高与波长的联合统计分布、波长统计分布以及波陡的统计分布。在此基础上对特征波陡的定义及其随风要素的变化规律做了较为细致的讨论。Three probability density functions are derived for a unidirectional and spatially homogeneous Gaussian wave field in the light of Sun Fu's theoretical frame about the statistical distribution of wave parameters of 3 D wave field They are the joint distribution of wave heights and wavelengths, the distribution of wavelengths and the distribution of wave steepness Based on these distributions the definitions of characteristic steepness, including mean steepness and sea state steepness are studied The strict physical implication of the now used definition of sea state steepness is revealed At last, the relationship of sea state steepness with wind velocity and wind fecth is given

关 键 词：波长 波陡 特征波陡 统计分布 海浪 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]