以胜浦服饰中“作腰”为例的中西围裙之比较  

A comparison between Chinese and European aprons by taking ″Zuo Yao″ of Shengpu attire as an example

作　　者：洪湉[1] 张竞琼[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2011年第6期124-128,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学规划项目(08JA-76-00-10);江苏省社会科学基金资助项目(10YSB004)

摘　　要：中西围裙体现了各自的风俗习惯和传统文化。胜浦水乡妇女服饰中的"作腰"是上千年来"稻作文化"沉淀的结果,也是中国传统文化发展的印证,有很高的艺术价值与实用价值。从"作腰"这一具体的"点"切入,通过对文献资料、相关馆藏实物与传世实物的查阅与研究,在材质的拼接、服从性、独立性与功能性等方面比较了中西围裙的相似性;又从形制、美学内涵、精神寓意等方面比较了他们的差异性,指出中西围裙流变的规律分别在于"由用到美"和"由美到用"。Both Chinese and European aprons are the representatives of their folk custom and traditional culture.The so-called ″Zuo Yao″ in Shengpu watery region women′s attire is the accumulation of the thousand-year old ″Cultivation Culture″.Meanwhile,it mirrors the development of traditional Chinese culture as well.Thus,it possesses a highly artistic and utility value.Taking ″Zuo Yao″ as a certain point-cut,the study compared the similarity between Chinese and Western aprons from the points of material collage,submissiveness,independence and function on the basis of documentary study and research on attire in folk custom museum and handed down physical.Furthermore,the essay also compared the difference between the two on shape and structure,aesthetic innotation and moral.And it depicts that,the rheological rule of oriental apron is based on ″from practicality to beautify″ while the other one lays on ″from beautify to practicality″.

关 键 词：围裙 形制 流变 拼接 功能 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]