Statistical model on the surface elevation of waves with breaking  

作　　者：YUAN YeLi HUA Feng ZHANG ShuWen HAN Lei 

机构地区：[1]Marine Science and Numerical Modeling Laboratory,SOA,Qingdao 266061,China [2]First Institute of Oceanography,SOA,Qingdao 266061,China [3]South China Sea Environmental Institute,Guangdong Ocean University,Zhanjiang 524088,China

出　　处：《Science China Earth Sciences》2008年第5期759-768,共10页中国科学（地球科学英文版）

基　　金：the National Key Programs for the Basic Study (Grant Nos. G1999043800 and 2006CB403600);the key subject of National Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 40531005);the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China for the Current and Wave Information Extraction by Coastal X band Radar

摘　　要：In the surface wind drift layer with constant momentum flux, two sets of the consistent surface eleva- tion expressions with breaking and occurrence conditions for breaking are deduced from the first in- tegrals of the energy and vortex variations and the kinetic and mathematic breaking criterions, then the expression of the surface elevation with wave breaking is established by using the Heaviside function. On the basis of the form of the sea surface elevation with wave breaking and the understanding of small slope sea waves, a triple composite function of real sea waves is presented including the func- tions for the breaking, weak-nonlinear and basic waves. The expression of the triple composite func- tion and the normal distribution of basic waves are the expected theoretical model for surface elevation statistics.In the surface wind drift layer with constant momentum flux, two sets of the consistent surface elevation expressions with breaking and occurrence conditions for breaking are deduced from the first integrals of the energy and vortex variations and the kinetic and mathematic breaking criterions, then the expression of the surface elevation with wave breaking is established by using the Heaviside function. On the basis of the form of the sea surface elevation with wave breaking and the understanding of small slope sea waves, a triple composite function of real sea waves is presented including the functions for the breaking, weak-nonlinear and basic waves. The expression of the triple composite function and the normal distribution of basic waves are the expected theoretical model for surface elevation statistics.

关 键 词：first INTEGRALS for energy and vortex variations in wind DRIFT layer kinetic and mathematic wave BREAKING criterions TRIPLE composite function of the real sea WAVES normal distribution of the basic WAVES 

分 类 号：P731[天文地球—海洋科学]