The Statistical Distribution of the Horizontal Velocities of Water Particles at Wave Surface Maxima  

作　　者：GUAN Changlong Professor, Institute of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003, China. 

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》1998年第3期359-364,共6页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.(No.49676274)

摘　　要：On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins, the statistical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derived theoretically. The derived distribution is similar to that of wave surface maxima, and a new spectral width epsilon(u), which is defined as (1 - m(3)(2)/m(2)m(4))(1/2), is introduced in the distribution. When epsilon(u) tends to zero, the distribution is reduced to Rayleigh distribution and it is reduced to the normal distribution when epsilon(u) tends to unity. For a narrow spectrum, it is proved that epsilon is equal to 1/2 epsilon, where epsilon is (1 - m(2)(2)/m(0)m(4))(1/2) and is the commonly used spectral width.On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins, the statistical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derived theoretically. The derived distribution is similar to that of wave surface maxima, and a new spectral width epsilon(u), which is defined as (1 - m(3)(2)/m(2)m(4))(1/2), is introduced in the distribution. When epsilon(u) tends to zero, the distribution is reduced to Rayleigh distribution and it is reduced to the normal distribution when epsilon(u) tends to unity. For a narrow spectrum, it is proved that epsilon is equal to 1/2 epsilon, where epsilon is (1 - m(2)(2)/m(0)m(4))(1/2) and is the commonly used spectral width.

关 键 词：sea wave wave surface maxima horizontal velocity statistical distribution 

分 类 号：TV139.2[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]